Brookstone Homes Building single and multi-family homes in Washington State


	*LIMITED BUILDER WARRANTY* ALL WORK SHALL HAVE BEEN EXECUTED BY SKILLED MECHANICS ACCORDING TO THE BEST TRADE PRACTICES KNOW TO PARTICULAR CRAFT AND/OR MANUFACTURER OF THE MATERIAL INSTALLED. BROOKSTONE HOMES SHALL REMEDY ANY DEFECTES, DUE TO FAULTY MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP, AS NOTED IN THE WARRANT SERVICE DOCUMENT. WHICH APPEARS WITHIN AND OF WHICH IS GIVEN IN WRITING TO BROOKSTONE HOMES WITHINA A PERIOD FO ONE YEAR FROM THE DATE OF OCCUPANCY, THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTY’S OF ANY KIND OF NATTURE EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, WHETHER ARISING UNDER THIS CONTRACT OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE WORK. THE WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER HOMEOWNER MAINTENANCE AS NOTED IN THE WARRANTY SERVICE DOCUMENT. *WARRANTY SERVICE DOCUMENT* (Tips on caring for your new home) We hope that you enjoy your new home. By maintaining it property, you will enjoy it more and contribute to the total quality and beauty of your neighborhood. On the following pages, you will find some Homeowner Maintenance Tips which should help you maintain your new home. These will be items that are not covered in this warranty but are items that are the Homeowner’s Responsibility. Please familiarize yourself with our Warranty Service Procedures which are found in this section. Items Covered in this Section Air Conditioning (if applicable) Heating System Gas Shut Off Electrical Plumbing Sewer & Septic System Roof & Gutters Door Locks & Weather Stripping Garage Overhead Door Concrete Drainage/Landscaping Drywall Painting & Staining Cabinets Millwork Counter Tops Floor Covering Building Material Expansion Contraction Caulking Warranty Service Procedures and Forms AIR CONDITIONER (if applicable) Air Conditioning can add much to the comfort of your home, not maintaining it correctly can result in wasted energy and improper cooling. To help you maximize your air conditioning system, we offer the following suggestions: Your air conditioner is a closed system, which means that the interior air is continually recycled and cooled until the desired air temperature is reached. You need to help your air conditioner system by closing your drapes to keep direct sun light out and keep doors and windows shut. If you come home at 5:30 p.m. on a day when the temperature had reached 90 degrees, and set your thermostat to 75 degrees, the air conditioning unit will begin cooling, but will take a long time to reach desired temperature. At 5:30 p.m., the air conditioning unit will start cooling the air, but the walls; carpet and furniture release heat and nullify the cooling. It may be hours before the air conditioning unit has cooled the walls, carpet and furniture. If no one is home during the day, you should set the air conditioner to a moderate temperature before leaving, allowing the unity to maintain the cooler temperature throughout the day. Then lower the setting slightly further when you arrive home. Setting the thermostat to 60 degrees will NOT cool the home any faster and can result in the unit “freezing up” and not performing at all, which can damage the unit. Be sure to adjust the cooling vents to maximize air flow to occupied parts of the home. If your air conditioner does not operate properly even after you have followed the above guidelines and the manufacturer’s warranty booklet, call the subcontractor listed on the Subcontractor List. Remember that you will be responsible for paying for the service call unless the problem is warranted. HEATING SYSTEM Good maintenance of the furnace can save energy dollars as well as prolong the life of your Furnace. Carefully read the Manufacturer’s Warranty Booklet and remember to change and/or clean the filter monthly during the heating season. If you find yourself with no heat, the following may identify the cause; you should also review the Manufacturer’s Warranty Booklet for help. These are normal homeowner’s maintenance items. Thermostat temperature setting and switches The On/Off switch @ the furnace –check the Manufacturer’s Booklet for location The fuse, if your furnace has one Breaker on the electrical panel Safety switch for the fan cover If none of these are the problem, call our Customer Service Department, but remember, only problems caused by an installation error will be warranted. The furnace is warranted by the Manufacturer. If you heating contractor makes a service call to turn on a switch, replace a fuse or reset a breaker, you will be obligated to pay a service charge. GAS SHUT- OFF There is a shut off on the gas line at or near its connection to each appliance that is supplied by the gas. There is also a main shut off at the gas meter located on the exterior (side of the garage). This shut off will turn off the gas to the whole house. If you smell gas, first try to locate where the fumes are coming from and turn off the gas to that appliance. Call the Warranty Service Department. If turning off the gas to that appliance doesn’t stop the fumes then turn off the main shut-off at the meter and call the Gas Company immediately for emergency services. If the gas is turned off of the following appliances, you will need to re-light the pilot light. Gas Fireplaces: The pilot light will need to be re-lit. Follow the instructions provided with the fireplace. Most fireplaces have an igniter (no need for matches). Gas Ranges: Most ranges have an electronic pilot light so there is no need to light. Hot Water Tank: The pilot light will need to be re-lit. Following the instructions provided with the hot water tank (you will need long wood matches). Furnace: The furnace has an electronic pilot light so there is no need to light. ELECTRICAL The meter control panel that contains the electrical breakers for your home includes a “MAIN” shut off that controls all the power to your home. In addition to the Main breaker switch, individual breakers control the separate circuits to your home these individual breakers have three positions: ON, OFF and TRIPPED. If you lose power to a specific portion of your home, check the individual circuit breakers in the control panel. If any breaker is in the TRIPPED position: First flip it to the OFF position and then it can be turned on. Switching the breaker from the TRIPPED position directly to the ON position will not restore electrical power. If you experience a total loss of electrical power to your home: Check the main breaker in the meter control panel discussed above. Next, check with your local utility company to see if the problem is with the source of electrical power supplied to your home. PLEASE NOTE THAT A LOSS OF POWER TO A LIMITED AREA OF YOUR HOME IS NOT CONSIDERED AN EMERGENCY If a wall outlet is not working, first check to see if it is controlled by a wall switch. Also check to be sure that the light bulb or the appliances being used is working. Your home’s electrical system also contains GROUND FAULT INTERRUPTER CIRCUITS, commonly referred to as GFI receptacles. Installation of these GFI receptacles is a safeguard against excessive, moisture and heavy appliance use. Faulty appliances, especially hair dryers, are a common cause of trip GFI receptacles. GFI receptacles have a reset button directly on the receptacle. If power is lost simply press the RESET button. The most common places to find these GFI receptacles are in Bathrooms, Kitchens, and Exterior receptacles. That doesn’t mean that each Bathroom & Kitchen will have one, there needs to be one on each circuit and two Bathrooms may be on the same circuit, so look through the house to know where the GFI’s are located. If any of your circuit breakers to continue to trip, unplug all items that are connected to that circuit and then reset the breaker. If the circuit the remains on, one of the items you had connected to it is defective. If it continues to trip call the electrician listed under the Emergency Subcontractor page. If a service call is required and it is determined that the problem is not warranted, you will be responsible for the electrician charges. PLUMBING All incidents pertaining to improper preventive maintenance during freezing temperatures will not be covered under our warranty under any circumstances and are the responsibility of the home owner to know how winterize their home. To insure against plumbing problems, observe the following guidelines that may help but are not limited to complete winterization: Many plumbing clogs are caused by improper garbage disposal use. Always use plenty of cold water when running the disposal. Allow the water to run 10 to 15 seconds after shutting off the disposal. Provided your home is heated at a normal level, pipes should not freeze. Heat should be set at 65 degrees at the least when you’re away during winter months. If temperatures are below normal, you should open cupboards to allow heat to the pipes and let faucets drip to keep pipes from freezing. Outside faucets must be shut off during freezing weather and the hose removed. The hose bibs are protective hose bibs that if properly shut off, will drain them selves only if the hose is removed. It is also highly recommended to install insulated cover. In the event of a leak or broken pipe, shut off water to the fixture as soon as possible and call a plumber. Each sink and commode has a shut off for its water supply or uses the main house water shut off, if necessary. Lines installed for sprinkler systems are the responsibility of the Homeowner. If our water supply stops completely, first check the water meter shut off which is located some place in the house or garage. Next, check the water meter shut off to confirm the service has not been shut down in your area. If this is not the problem, please call our Warranty Service Department. PLEASE NOTE: Having to shut OFF the water to an isolated item in the home (such as a toilet) is not an emergency. If it is a warrantable problem, submit it to our Warranty Service Department in accordance with normal procedures. SEWER STOPPAGE All of your sewer and drain lines should operate freely and should have been inspected by the local building department. If a sewer or drain line becomes clogged, repair is required. Should an emergency problem develop with your sewer or drain lines and you have determined that the clogging is not the result of a blockage caused by improper disposal or other homeowner maintenance problem you should contact us immediately. Preventative maintenance is the best safeguard against clogged drains or sewer lines. Clogs are generally caused by the improper disposal of waste materials. It is very important to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines regarding the use of garbage disposals and not to flush excessive amounts of waste when using your bathroom toilets. The use of plunger can facilitate the clearing of minor clogs, and if you use a chemical agent, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid personal injury. If a service call is requested and it is determined that the problem is not warranted, you will be responsible for the plumber’s charges. SEWERS WITH GRINDER PUMPS (if applicable) Grinder Pumps are needed in lots where the main sewer lines in the street have to be installed very shallow to get fall. In most cases the sewer stub from the house with fall will end up being lower than the sewer main so in that case a Grinder Pump is needed. There is a tank set below ground with an access lid. The sewer line from the house connects to the tank. The solids are ground and then pumped out to the main sewer line to the street. This system will have a power disconnect switch located on the exterior next to the house sewer stub. There is also a panel with an alarm light and an audible horn to let you know if the pump stops working. If the alarm goes off, first check that the disconnect switch is in the ON position (kids lie to play with the switch) Next go to the main electrical pane and check the breaker to make sure that it didn’t trip. If that doesn’t work call the Warranty Service Department. SEPTIC SYSTEM (if applicable) See the Inspecting Your Septic Tank pamphlet that is included (if applicable). ROOF & GUTTERS After severe storms, a visual inspection of the roof is called for. Notify your homeowner’s insurance if there is storm damage noted. Maintain the gutters and down spouts so that they are free of debris and will drain quickly. Clean your gutters out once each year, preferably right before winter. GARAGE OVERHEAD DOOR On yearly bases a light gauge oil should be applied to track, roller, hinges, pulleys and springs. Also check to see if nuts and bolts are tight. DOOR LOCKS & WEATHER STRIPPING Lubricate door locks with graphite or other waterproof lubricant. Avoid oil, as it will gum up. Tighten locks as needed. Exterior doors have a rubber weather stripping on each side across the top of the jamb. The bottom of the door jamb is called threshold; this can be wood or aluminum in most cases. Most wood thresholds are adjustable you either turn screws down to lower or back out the screws to raise it. There is also a rubber sweep on the bottom of the door, which rubs on the threshold to seal the bottom. Check the rubber sweep from time to time to make sure there is a tight seal. If needed adjust the threshold. If the rubber starts to tear replace if and re-adjust the threshold. Aluminum thresholds in most cases are not adjustable but the rubber sweep at the bottom of the door is, there are 4-5 screws, just loosen and adjust as needed and then re-tighten. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. The weather stripping is not covered under this warranty. CONCRETE Our Warranty does not cover most concrete. Concrete is not replaced because of cracking. By maintaining good drainage away from your home, you are protecting both your home’s foundation and the basement floor slab. Sweep your garage out, don’t hose it down. DRAINAGE & LANDSCAPING Proper drainage depends on proper grading to ensure efficient drainage of water away from the foundation of your home. The grading has been done to facilitate water run-off. Do not fill in or change Drainage as you may case foundation problems to your home. You are responsible for maintaining grades and swales in order to keep water away from your foundation. You are also responsible for landscaping your yard in order to avoid soil erosion DRYWALL Truss Lift: This is when the bottom cord of the truss will crown up in turn lifting the bottom cord of the truss off the top plates of the interior walls. This is caused by the changes in temperature and humidity. (Truss lifting is most severe during the colder months) There is nothing that can be done to fix this. If there is some cracking in the corners between the walls and ceiling wait until the warmer months and caulk it using a Latex Caulking (see Caulking). This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. Lumber Dry-out: Lumber will shrink and as it shrinks you may get some small cracking at interior corners and outside corners if they’re small, just caulk them with some Latex caulking (See Caulking). This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. Wall Dings: Wall dings, which were not noted on the pre-closing walk through list are the Homeowner’s responsibility. To repair use a putty knife and remove any loose drywall, then use the putty knife an fill with some Spackling Compound, let dry, then sand smooth with small sanding block, then take a wet cloth and wipe the area around spot (to blend with old texture), let dry, tape off area around spot like millwork, windows, baseboards, carpet, etc., then spray area with a Spray Texture, let dry and paint. Larger Structural Cracking: Will be covered by the warranty and repaired on the 11th month Service trip or sooner, we will come in to the house only one time within the year warranty period. It will be up to the homeowner when that is. PAINTING & STAFFING Follow these guidelines for painting and staining your home: Paint touch-up after the pre-closing walkthrough. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. Interior walls can be wiped off with water (Do not scrub walls). Check the surface of your home’s exterior annually to see if you can touch-up or repair the painted or stained surfaces. Separation of wood trim from the adjacent material is a normal result of shrinkage, which can require caulking and touch-up painting. This is Homeowner’s responsibility. CABINETS Cabinets should be cleaned with products such as Liquid Gold or Old English Furniture Polish. White cabinets can be cleaned by using a mild soap and water solution. MILLWORK Stained Millwork: Should be cleaned with a product such as Liquid Gold or Old English Polish (the sun will dry out the millwork through windows). Scratches and/or dents can be fixed by using some stain or putty. Stained millwork will expand and contract subject to the changes in temperature and humidity. You will need to, from time to time, re-putty the miter corners on mitered casing and/or baseboard. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. Painted Millwork: Can be cleaned by using a mild soap and water solution. Scratches can be sanded and repainted. Dents or nail holes can be filled, sanded and repainted. Painted millwork will expand or contract subject to the changes in temperature and humidity. You will need to, from time to time, re-putty the miter corners on mitered casing and/or baseboard. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. Caulking: We caulk all the baseboards to the wall, we feel that the house looks better by doing this (it doesn’t need to be done) if there is any shrinkage just re-caulk with some white Latex caulking (see Caulking). This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. If after move-in you notice some nail holes which may not have been filled, just use some putty to fill and wipe off with a clean rag. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. COUNTER TOPS Always use a cutting board when cutting, chopping, etc. Protect the counter from hot pans and avoid abrasive cleaners that will damage the luster of the surface. Backsplashes and counter tops will need to be caulked from time to time. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility. *NOTE: Tile grout lines do not have a sealer on it. This is the Homeowner’s responsibility.* Call your floor covering subcontractor if you would like to purchase the recommended sealer. FLOOR COVERING The three most common types of flooring are: Hardwood, Ceramic tile and Vinyl Hardwood Floors: Wood floors will respond noticeably to changes in humidity; a humidifier will help, but will not completely eliminate this reaction. Wood floors exhibit the following traits: When new, small splinters of wood will appear, dimples or scratches can be caused by moving furniture, dropping heavy or sharp objects, etc. Some shrinkage or warping can be expected, especially around heat vents or any heat producing appliances. Warping will occur if the floor becomes repeatedly wet or is thoroughly soaked even one time. A dulling of the finish in heavy traffic areas is likely; a white filmy appearance is caused by moisture. Daily care of hardwood floors and preventative maintenance is the primary goal. For example: never wet mop a hardwood floor. Excessive water causes wood to expand, possibly damaging the floor. Waxing is not necessary or recommended. We recommend that in a period of six months to one year, you have an extra coat of polyurethane applied to your hardwood floor. This should be done by a qualified contractor. The exact timing will depend on your particular lifestyle. It is common for hardwood flooring to expand and contract subject to the changes in humidity through the year. You will get gaping (shrinking) between the boards and with them they will expand back to a tight fit. Each Homebuyer lives differently, you may need to get a humidifier if you start getting a lot of shrinkage. Ceramic Tile: This is one of the easiest of the floor coverings to care for. Simply vacuum or wet mop if needed, but do not add detergent to the water. If the floor needs cleaning, use warm water and dishwasher crystals, and rinse thoroughly. It is normal for a slight preparation to occur tile grout meets another material, such as along the edge of the bathtub. Tub and tile caulk can be used to seal the separation. Vinyl Tile: High heels should not be worn while walking on vinyl floors, as this will cause damage. Clean according to manufacturer’s recommendations or use vinegar and water solution. Scratches, cuts and the like in vinyl after your pre-closing walkthrough are the Homeowner’s responsibility. BUILDING MATERIAL EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION Most building materials will expand and contract subject to changes in temperature and humidity. All materials do not expand and contract at the same rate and the result may be small cracks in the drywall and paint and small separations between materials. This is very normal in a new home, even in the highest quality of construction. Shrinkage of the wood and sheet-rock items in your home is inevitable, and this will be most noticeable during the first year following completion of the construction. However, generally all that is needed is a small cosmetic repair, sometimes involving only minor caulking. Keep in mind though that even properly installed caulk will eventually require replacement by you the Homeowner. CAULKING It is the Homeowner’s responsibility to properly maintain the caulking throughout the home. This is especially critical in the bathrooms. Tile grout that is cracking should be immediately repaired with a good tub and tile caulk. Three types of caulk are: Silicone Caulk: White and/or clear caulking that contain silicone will not accept paint, but works best where water is present. (Around showers, between counter and backsplash, between fiberglass tubs and wall tiles, bottom of toilets) Latex Caulk: White interior latex caulking (painter’s caulk) is appropriate for an area that requires painting. (Drywall cracking, between windows and window wrap, etc.) Caulk: White and/or brown exterior caulking like OSI is appropriate (Siding seams, around windows, etc.) are as that requires painting. OUR WARRANTY SERVICE PROCEDURE For any warranty or customer service call Jim Mearns or Bryce Mearns with Brookstone Homes (253.363.7080); or email at premierbryce@msn.com . After hours or weekends; you will need to call the appropriate subcontractor directly, please refer to the Emergency Subcontractor List. We ask that you submit only the 30-Day Service Request and the 11-month Service Request lists during your 12-month Warranty period unless you have an emergency in between. NOTE: The 30-Day and the 11-Month Service Request forms will be due no later than the due date listed on that form, and sent to the address listed below in Section C for any warranty items which you feel need to be repaired to be valid. 30 (Thirty) – Day List: These are additional warrantable items that are noticed after you have moved in which were not apparent during your pre-closing walkthrough. 11 (Eleven) – Month List: These are additional warrantable items which you discover which you believe we are responsible and are not homeowner maintenance items. Please mail both lists at the appropriate time to our office at: *Brookstone Homes* *1002 N. Meridian, Suite 100-250* *Puyallup, WA 98373* We ask that you describe the problem in detail. After we receive the Warranty Service Request From we will call to set up a time to do a List Walkthrough with you. After that has been completed we will then get the appropriate person scheduled to complete the repair. We or one of our subcontractors will call you for an appointment once we have completed the List Walkthrough. Work is performed Monday-Friday between 8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. Please make arrangements to be home at the scheduled appointment time, or leave a key some place at a location, or mail a key to the office prior to any scheduled appointment.
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